INTERIOR METALS

         
Satin/Brushed                    Polished/Mirror

BRONZE & BRASS

A Little About Brass
True brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. It tends to oxidize (tarnish) quickly when exposed to air which is a major reason why most brass is given a clear coating of lacquer to prevent this condition. Most conventional polishes such as "Brasso ®", "Twinkle ®", etc. coat the raw metal with a thin film of oil to inhibit the development of future tarnishing. 

Advantages of using brass
The use of brass provides an excellent, high class, look. The advantages of brass for architectural applications include its excellent corrosive resistance, and its joining, plating, polishing and finishing characteristics. Brass is easily machined.

Disadvantages of using brass
Brass requires a good deal of maintenance since it is prone to a blackish tarnish.

Metal care tips for finished, lacquered brass
Most commercial metal polishes usually contain solvents and detergents to remove the tarnish, mild abrasives to polish the metal, and oils to act as a barrier between the raw metal and air.

Brass products can turn "black" due to the over-use or misuse of polish. The biggest challenge to upkeep most metals, including brass, is the removal and inhibition of tarnish. All substances, especially metals, oxidize when exposed to air. Once tarnish is removed, a chemical barrier should be created between the bare metal and the air to inhibit the process from re-occurring.

Many people over-use and flood metal surfaces with polishes thinking they are better protecting the surface. It is an incorrect assumption that the use of more polish will provide more protection. More polish creates a smudging problem since fingerprints (human body oils) "dissolve" the solvency of the metal polish. Additionally, too much polish may discolor the surface.

Polishing
Apply a trace amount creating a thin film. Only apply an adequate amount of metal polish and spread out the amount on an absorbent rag. Then, let the rag dry out for 24 hours before using on most metals. Apply this trace amount of polish with the grain of the brass with one hand while buffing it out in a rapid motion (creating friction) with the other hand.

This burnishing, or buffing, action will harden the polish and create a surface more difficult to smudge or discolor.

What not to do
Do not use heavy abrasives to clean brass.

Metal care tips for "raw" brass
The care of most raw metals is a 2-step process. They are:

Step 1. Cleaning
To clean light soils use isopropyl (a.k.a. rubbing alcohol) applied with the sponge side of a light-duty, "white-padded" scrubbing sponge. In the event of tougher scuffmarks or heavier soils, flip over the sponge and gently agitate moving the white scrub pad with the grain of the metal.

Dampen the sponge side with water, and apply a light scouring low abrasion cream onto it. Work the abrasion cream into the sponge, and then stroke with the grain. When completed, wipe the surface thoroughly clean with a clean, soft rag. Once surface is cleaned, then go to the next step, polishing.

Step 2. Polishing
Use one of the best tools to polish brass, a "yellow" treated dust cloth, which provides just the right amount of oil onto metal. Wipe down the brass with this cloth and then buff it dry with a soft, cotton cloth. The trace amount of oil contained in the cloth should not smear or discolor, especially after buffing.

Use olive oil. Rub brass with a cloth treated with olive oil after each polishing and the brass will look brighter and require less polishing. Olive oil retards tarnish.

What not to do
Do not use heavy abrasives to clean brass.

STAINLESS STEEL

CARE OF STAINLESS STEEL

About Stainless Steel
It is well known as an extremely hardy metal that requires little upkeep. No other material compares to the life cycle costing of stainless steel, which takes into account not only the initial cost but subsequent maintenance, repair and replacement.

In addition to the enduring quality, environmental friendliness and easy maintenance of stainless steel there is, of course, its classic beauty. Stainless steel adds a clean, modern, upscale design to any installation.

Types Of Stainless Steel Used
There are many different kinds of stainless steel, with varying metallurgical structures. The standard is Type 302/304 stainless, an austenitic stainless steel which contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel, and is therefore often referred to as 18-8 stainless.

How To Care For Stainless Steel
Stainless steel has excellent corrosion resistance, luster, strength and durability. However, it is not stain or rust proof. Regular maintenance is required to keep stainless steel clean and free of contaminants.

In most applications, stainless will not rust or stain even after many years of service. However, stressful environments such as hospitals and laboratories, parking garages or other situations where stainless may be exposed to corrosive elements require proper care and maintenance.

Do's & Don'ts:

	Do clean stainless frequently with soap and water. Any cleaner safe for glass is usually safe for stainless; apply with a cotton cloth.
	Do use a coating to help safeguard stainless, such as a good car wax, for added beauty and protection.
	Do remove discoloration or rust spots as soon as possible with a brass, silver or chrome cleaner. Irreversible pitting will develop under rust that remains on stainless for any period of time. Apply a mild abrasive cleaner such as Bon Ami, Ajax or their equivalent with a wet cotton cloth in the direction of the grain of the finish. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry. Stains which resist the above treatment may require scouring in the direction of the grain with stainless steel wool and a mild abrasive cleaner in creamy paste form. If scraping is required, use stainless steel pads, sponges, wood or plastic tools.
	Don't use coarse abrasives like sandpaper or steel wool on stainless. These may actually cause rusting.
	Don't clean with mineral acids or bleaches.
	Don't leave stainless in contact with iron, steel or other metals which cause contamination leading to rust or corrosion.
	Don't store near any corrosive products, such as chlorine.

CODES AND STANDARDS

for HANDRAILS

Handrail Clearance:
It is believed a consensus as to what clearance should be required has been reached by most standards committees and regulatory bodies.  The traditional clear space between a wall or other surface and a handrail of 1.5" has been accepted as the most beneficial space.  The following codes and standards specify a wall clearance of 1.5" minimum.

Handrail Dimensions:
The Life Safety Code and ICC/ANSI A.117.1-03 similar requirements for handrail size as described below:
Circular Cross Section. Handrails shall have a circular cross section with an outside diameter of 1.125" (32mm) minimum and 2" (51mm) maximum, or shall provide equivalent grasp ability.
Non-Circular Cross Section. Handrails with other shapes shall be permitted provided they have a perimeter dimension of 4" (100mm) minimum and 6.125" (160mm) maximum, and provided their largest cross-section dimensions is 2.125" (57mm) maximum.

ICC/ANSI A117.1-03
The American with Disabilities Act adopted by Congress in 1992 required handrails to be 1.125" minimum and 1.5" maximum.  However, the US Architectural and Transportation Barriers Compliance Board published the ADAAG Manual-A guide to the Americans with Disabilities Act Accessibility Guidelines - Section 4.26.2 Size and Spacing of Grab Bars and Handrails of the ADAAG manual states in part, "Standard IPS pipe designed by 1.125" to 1.5" inches is acceptable." (1.66" to 1.90" outside diameter)

Fasteners and strength. 
Pull-out Values for 3/8" stud. Handrail thread-lock fastener engineered test data pull-out values for removal for treaded fasteners = 1509 lbs.
Pull-out Values for 1/4" - 20 Bolt.265 lbs (120kg) ultimate tensile load in 1/2" drywall.  306 lbs (162kg) ultimate tensile load is 5/8" drywall.  925 lbs (420kg) ultimate tensile load in concrete block.  1,283 lbs (583kg) ultimate tensile load in steel plate.  Toggler is a registered trade mark of Mechanical Plastics Corporation.

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ASME A17.1-2005 - 8.11.2.1.3(CC)(3) On any type of elevator, the suspension, compensation and governor ropes shall be replaced when their actual diameter is reduced below the value shown in Table 8.11.2.1.3(cc)(3).

for BARRICADES

2005 Elevator Employees' Safety Handbook 4.3 Escalator/Moving Walk Barricades

	Barricades shall be positioned to completely surround the escalator/moving walk from public access.
	Barricades shall be positioned to surround, from public access, floor opening created when equipment access plate(s) are removed.
	Barricades shall be a minimum of 42" (1067mm) high
	Barricades shall be securely attached to the balustrades, handrails and/or floor.
	All sections shall be connected.
	A system shall be in place to keep the barricade rigid.

for ESCALATOR

    
Imperial                   Metric

Step Skirt Clearances
A.17.1.2005 - 8.6.8.2 Step to Skirt Clearances.  Clearances shall be maintained in compliance with the applicable codes.  Alternatively, the clearance on either side of the steps and between the steps and the adjacent skirt guard shall not exceed 4mm (0.16") (B44-94 = 5.0mm) and the sum of the clearances on both sides shall not exceed 7mm (0.28") (B44-94 = 6.0mm.)

Anti-Slide Devices
ASME A17.1-2005 - 6.1.3.3.12...These devices shall consist of raised objects fastened to the decks,...They shall be spaced not greater than 2000 mm (78") apart....The height shall be not less than 50 mm (2").  There shall be no sharp corners or edges.

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

Kilograms to Pounds
(Formula: 1 kg = 2.205 lbs)
Pounds to Kilograms
(Formula: 1 lb = 0.4535 kg)
Liters to Gallons
(Formula: 1 L = 0.264 gallons)
Gallons to Liters
(Formula: 1 gal = 3.7879 L)
Feet to Meters
(Formula: 1 ft = 0.3049 m)
Meters to Feet
(Formula: 1 m = 3.28 ft)